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Standard Mounting Standoffs from the Hardware Store |
Posted by: MarkHaysHarris777 - 08-28-2016, 12:05 AM - Forum: Enclosures
- Replies (2)
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In the pic above we're looking at a standard machine bolt 3Mx30.
... these bolts are readily available from any local hardware carrier , and are especially handy as desk stand-offs ( without enclosure ) or they may also be used to 'hang' the board from the top case bezel of an ABS plastic box like the Radio Shack enclosure discussed earlier this week.
These are 3M machine bolts; which means they just fit the holes in the Pine board. I have chosen 30mm posts here, with washers and nuts, so that when my testing is complete I can use the same stand-offs to hang the board from its ABS enclosure top bezel. One of the advantages here is that the height of the board, or the hang off-set, may be adjusted easily with the nuts and washers provided.
Standard 'stand-offs' may be purchased via electronics whole-salers and retailers, but these bolts are generally less expensive , may be obtained locally , and don't require shipping costs. This is just another option for mounting.
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Can't get power button to work |
Posted by: AidenH - 08-27-2016, 08:46 PM - Forum: Pine A64 Hardware, Accessories and POT
- Replies (17)
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Hi,
Today I decided to add a power button to my Pine64. I have a momentary push button switch with a red LED that I got off eBay that I was going to use and I soldered some header wires to use the switch with the EXP connector pins (using pin 5). However, I cannot get the switch to work. It works as a reset switch (using pin 4), but not as a power switch. I also soldered on the included switch to the holes at the front of the board but that does work either. I tired using the System LED pin (pin 2) on the EXP connector for the LED on my button, but that is not working as well. I have the latest release of Ubuntu installed. I don't see what is wrong, the button I have works, but connected to the Pine64 it doesn't? Any ideas?
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USB Adapters |
Posted by: birdcatx7 - 08-27-2016, 12:05 PM - Forum: Game Station Emulation
- No Replies
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Ok, so I'm running the latest RemixOs. I have the following:
- 1 third party wired XBOX controller
- 2 original SNES controllers
- multiple PS1/PS2 controllers
- a SNES to usb adapter (two SNES controllers in, one usb out)
- a PSX/PS2 to usb adapter (two PSX controllers in, one usb out)
Using Retroarch:
- one PSX controller plugged in, worked fine in the menus, but was non responsive in game
- the third party XBOX controller seems to work just fine in both menu and games
- one SNES controller plugged in, worked fine in the menus, but was non responsive in game
- on a hunch I disconnected the SNES controller from one adapter port, and plugged into the other one. Now it works in game, but not in menus.
Using SNESRetro 16:
- one SNES controller works just fine in both menus and in game.
- two SNES controllers seem to work fine in menus, but create problems in game.
- during co-op, each controller can perform fine one at a time, but if trying to use both at the same time, it creates problems.
- switched to the PSX adapter/controllers, and find the same thing.
Conclusion: The pine64 see's each controller as the same, because they're plugged into the same USB port. Can anyone else confirm/refute this?
I currently have a small usb dongle plugged into one port, for my wireless keyboard. That leaves one free port. Now, if I obtained a USB hub and plugged two XBOX controllers into it, would the Pine recognize them as two different controllers, or just one device?
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CAN bus driver |
Posted by: ErtiWinter - 08-27-2016, 08:42 AM - Forum: Debian
- Replies (1)
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Hello
Will the Can bus driver be included in the Debian Linux system.
I can use mcp251x on Raspberry PI2 with the socket can interface.
On Raspberry it is also possible to use Virtual Can interfaces (vcan).
Regards,
Erti
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Howto: Controlling Pine64 GPIO via the filesystem (sysfs) on linux |
Posted by: pfeerick - 08-26-2016, 11:52 PM - Forum: Pi2, Euler and Exp GPIO Ports
- Replies (4)
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So, you received your Pine64 board, and now you want to do the first thing that almost all electronic hobbyists do as their first project... blink an LED.
You might have seen a guide like this one, and gone... "that looks easy" or "I'm confused!". If you have used a Raspberry Pi, you're probably going "it's easy"... but there is a catch. Whilst the pine64 does have a 40 pin connector that is mostly compatible with the Raspberry Pi (ie. important bits like I2C, SPI, power are all in the same places), some bits don't work 100% like the Raspberry Pi. The gremlins we know about so far aren't a big problem as long as you know about them, as they are easily remedied. One or two others are annoying enough that you might just go "I wanted to use pin 7 for my project, but on the pine64 it controls the backlight for the LCD board, and turning it off isn't a one line command, so I'll just use another pin". That sort of thing. There are plenty of other I/O pins to choose from, so not being able to use one without some fiddling isn't a drama for most setups.
The other thing to be aware of is that if you are using accessing the GPIO (General Purpose Input/Output) pins like I'm about to demonstrate, and are using a nice Raspberry Pi Pinout guide like the nice one that Raspberry Pi Spy does, the GPIO numbers are all different! So if you wanted to connect your LED to pin 15, which is GPIO22 on the Raspberry Pi, and told gpio22 to turn on and off, nothing would happen! The reason for this comes from the fact that the pins are grouped differently on the CPU used on the pine64. The detail isn't important, unless you wanted to work out how to calculate it yourself. If so, have at look at this post, and you'll be able to work out the formula used. Needless to say, if you've done it once, you've done it 100 times, so a nice lookup table is always handy. Joey was kind enough to write up a nice reference table showing the Pine64 GPIO pin number / Raspberry Pi GPIO pin numbering / physical pin numbers. So keep that handy when you want to work out which pin is which.
longsleep also wrote a very handy script which converts the pin names (the ones like PC7 and PH5) to sysfs GPIO numbers. All you need to do is download it, make it executable (chmod +x pine64-gpio-number.py) and then run it specifying the pin name as an argument...
Code: ./pine64-gpio-number.py PC7
... to which the script will then print out "71" and volia... you know what GPIO number PC7 is! btw, you need python3 to run that script, so if it doesn't work properly when you run, you can add python3 by running "sudo apt-get -y install python3", and you can then try the script again.
Now, you have yourself a pine64, you're logged into the terminal either via a serial link, via a network (wired or wireless link), or by with a monitor or keyboard connected to it. If not... you might want to back up a few steps, and get your system up to a state where you have a running linux distro, and can log into it! 
First thing you'll want to do is connect an LED to your pine64 so you can blink it. You have two options. There is actually a place on the board you can add an LED (a smaller 3mm led is best, as standard 5mm leds are a bit to big for where this LED goes). If you have a look near where the headphones socket is on the board, you'll see that there is a place for an IR receiver, a power and reset button, but more importantly for us, an LED (not to be confused with the Chg LED pads next to it - which is for usage with the pine64 battery charge circuitry). You can probably get away with poking the LED into the hole, and bending the leds to keep them under tension, whilst making sure they don't make contact with any contacts on the board, but I would strongly recomment you solder it on, so it makes a good connection. Plus it looks a lot neater! If you take this option, make sure you put the LED in the right way around (cathode - short leg - goes to negative-, and anode - long leg - goes to positive +), otherwise you'll have to take it off and turn it around!! Also, the GPIO number you'll need to use to control this LED is 359, so remember that for later!
The second option is the easier one. You need an LED and a resistor (anything between 220ohm to 1K will do), a breadboard and some connector wires. If you don't have some handy, I strongly recommend you get yourself a set of male to male, male to female, and female to female dupont connector breadboard wires.... you can get a set of 120 for a couple of $$ on eBay, and you'll find them indispensable in future electronics projects. Wire up the breadboard something like the below example. You then connect the end of the resistor (wire on the left side) to a GND pin on the pine64 (pin 39 will do just nicely). For this example, connect the LED positive (wire on the right side) to pin 40 of the pine64. Now you have the LED connected, ready to make it blink.
Now, at the pine64's console prompt, pressing enter at the end of each line. I will explain the purpose of each command in a moment.
Code: sudo -i
echo "75" > /sys/class/gpio/export
echo "out" > /sys/class/gpio/gpio75/direction
echo 1 > /sys/class/gpio/gpio75/value
echo 0 > /sys/class/gpio/gpio75/value
Line 1 logs you into the root user account on your pine64, as due to how the permissions are configured by default, only the root user can access the GPIO stuff we're about to change. I believe it is possible to change permissions, or use different methods of accessing the GPIO, but that is beyond this scope of this guide.
Line 2 is where the magic starts. Before we can use a pin, we need to make sure it has been initialised. The only bit you would normally change on this line is the number. If you look at Joey's GPIO pinout reference, you'll see that the reason I specified 75 is because that is the pine64 GPIO port number that corresponds with pin40!
Line 3 tells the pine64 if the GPIO pin is to be an input or an output (the I/O bit in GPIO). Since we want to turn an LED on and off... we want it to be an output. If we had wanted to monitor a swtich or button, we would have specified it to be an "input" instead.
Lines 4 & 5 are the ones that will be the most exciting, and have been what we've been working towards... Line 4 will make the led turn on ("1"), and Line 5 will make the led turn off ("0"). Think of "1" being "POWER!" and "0" being "NO POWER!", as that is essentially what those lines are doing... turning the pin output on and off. You can run those last two lines as many times as you like... , and if the pin is on and you try to turn it on again... unsurprisingly nothing will happen.
Now see if you can attach LEDs other GPIO pins, and make them light up! you should be use most of the pins (highlighted in blue on Joey's table). I would avoid using pins 7,8 & 10 however, as they have other functions that could cause unexpected results.
I hope you have found this guide helpful, and happy blinking!
TODO: Do a better picture, maybe a more entertaining blink script, maybe a video... showing the wiring?
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Update on shipment status for ABS case, Playbox enclosure, and ZWave module |
Posted by: tllim - 08-26-2016, 04:38 PM - Forum: Shipment Related Discussion
- Replies (46)
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The dispatch activity already started on August 19 once we confirmed that second batch (there are two batches, first batch deliver on late July)) ABS and Playbox enclosure delivered from factory to China shipping facility on August 22. Until yesterday, the shipping facility already dispatch out 50+% shipment (around 6,000+) and the rest will continue ship out on next week. Due to intense shipment, the shipping facility didn't provide daily tracking number list to KS support team and the list just submitted yesterday. This means once you get the tracking number, your shipment should be already on the way to you.
We have one hiccup on the ZWave AU module arrangement, when we sorting the ZWave type and discovered backers ordered AU type more than we expected where we can only knows from country list. We have immediately placed additional order two weeks ago and the delivery time is September 7. This means part of the ZWave AU deployment (less than 100) will happen on September 7 and we apologize on this hiccup. The EU and US type ZWave module already deployed together with the enclosure delivery. More than 90% ZWave module shipment accompany with ABS enclosure order.
[Update 8/27/2016] The attached file (already deleted for new update list on below) is the excel file with KS, Backerkit order and shipping tracking number. The list that marked yellow means already shipped with tracking number. The shipping facility still continue shipped out on this week and I will update this list from time to time. If you have any question or inquiry, please email to support@pine64.org, please don't PM me due to this will overload my current loading which is already very heavy.
[Update 9/02/2016] The below attached file ((already deleted for new update list on below) ) is the excel file with KS, Backerkit order and shipping tracking number till September 2, 2016. The total shipment quantity is 10328 pieces and the shipping facility already shipping out 9651 pieces up till today. Still have 667 pieces to ship out on next week, this includes ZWave AU module shipment once we received additional module from factory on September 7.
[Update 9/23/2016] The below attached file is the excel file with KS, Backerkit order and shipping tracking number till September 23, 2016. The total shipment quantity is 10328 pieces and the shipping facility already shipping out 10268 pieces up till today. The last 60 pieces (contains ZWave AU module) plan to ship out on this week, this concludes the ABS enclosure, playbox enclosure, and ZWave module shipment.
ABSENCL and PLYBENC and Z-Wave -Shipping update 20160902.xls (Size: 788 KB / Downloads: 736)
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Console access withouth network or monitor. |
Posted by: mypineme - 08-26-2016, 03:27 PM - Forum: POT modules
- Replies (6)
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This thread describes a successful connection providing a UART Serial Console on a Linux Host however, this should work on Windows and Mac. The PINE64 board used is a 2GB version (A64-DB-2B-Rev B 2016-02-25). The connection is provided by a USB To RS232 adapter purchased from eBay:
NOTE: you would need 3.3v USB To RS232 adapter, otherwise you may fry your PINE64!
![[Image: img4.jpg]](https://www.theigor.net/imgs/var/resizes/Forums/img4.jpg)
The successful connection is made on the EXP connector:
Connect the GND (it should be labeled on the USB Module Adapter) to Pin 6 or 9 of the EXP connector.
Connect the RX (it should be labeled on the USB Module Adapter) to Pin 7 of the EXP connector.
Connect the TX (it should be labeled on the USB Module Adapter) to Pin 8 of the EXP connector.
![[Image: img5.jpg]](https://www.theigor.net/imgs/var/resizes/Forums/img5.jpg)
Plug the USB end into your Linux host. Find the tty that has been assigned to it by opening a terminal window and typing
. The last group of messages will show you how Linux has mapped the USB module to the tty. In my case the output appears as:
Code: [ 4806.188739] usb 3-1: new full-speed USB device number 6 using uhci_hcd
[ 4806.338823] usb 3-1: New USB device found, idVendor=1a86, idProduct=7523
[ 4806.338828] usb 3-1: New USB device strings: Mfr=0, Product=2, SerialNumber=0
[ 4806.338831] usb 3-1: Product: USB2.0-Serial
[ 4806.341875] ch341 3-1:1.0: ch341-uart converter detected
[ 4806.354983] usb 3-1: ch341-uart converter now attached to ttyUSB0
What I'm looking for is:
Code: [ 4806.354983] usb 3-1: ch341-uart converter now attached to ttyUSB0
The final line of the output indicates the USB Serial Device has been assigned to ttyUSB0 (/dev/ttyUSB0).
There are many ways to connect to serial using Linux OS, I will show you two method that I use.
Method one (terminal):
Code: $ sudo screeen /dev/ttyUSB0 115200
Method two (UI):
you would still need to run it from terminal as sudo.
1.) Go to Configuration->Port
2.) Select /dev/ttyUSB0 from Port drop down
2.)Change Baud Rate to 115200
3.) Then click OK
Boot the PINE64 and you should see output in the terminal window on your Linux host.
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