Hello everyone, I am in quite a pickle, as unlike the majority here, I live in a country (Israel) where despite the Europlug standard being officially supported, the socket (SI32) provides absolutely no structural support (as in, weight) for it, which is the cause of many power supplies with broken integrated Europlug plugs. This has caused me to be unable to actually utilize my Pinecil, since the only power supply I have for it is a 65W slim Lenovo charger, which while it has a removable plug cable (a shame that it is not grounded), unfortunately it's USB-C cable is a nonremovable PVC cable, rather than a Silicon cable.

Obviously, the solution would be to get a Framework charger... except that they are not yet available in Israel, and it would take too long until they start being available.

So does anyone have any recommendations for a charger that has a modular plug cable (2-pin is alright, however I'd rather have it 3-pin (such as the "Mickey Mouse" connector), so as to allow for grounding between the wall and the power supply) and either has a silicon cable (USB-C or DC552) or a USB-C socket for proper modularity and is not prohibitively expensive?

I installed arch linux a while ago, and usb hub +keyboard works. However, wifi finds my network with wpa2 encryption and gets an IP, but i can't even ping my default gw (with works from other devices).

After a while, the pinephone stops finding any wifi networks.

When I tried to get eth0 up via console, it says: SIOCSIFFLAGS: Cannot assign requested address.
I set the ip via: ifconfig eth0 192.168.0.240
But I cannot do: ifconfig eth0 up

Any idea how to get it running?

btw. why isn't there a config option or eth0 in the menu, where the wlan is? I don't always have a keyboard with me.
And why does the wifi stop finding networks?

My pinetime consequently shuts off when discharged to 50%
50% is roughly 3.75V IIRC.
Full charge is 4.21V.
The PT can last for over a week on a single charge, provided I don't connect with bluetooth or measure heart rate. So I don't think the PT still has half its battery charge left when it shuts down.

I'd like to have the battery indicator show percentage of actual, usable battery charge.
Any way to troubleshoot + fix this?

Sal

"The goal of Tow-Boot is to make booting boring."

Martijn Braam from PostMarketOS highlighted the recent development of Tow-Boot with a video of installing it on the Pinephone Pro.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufzAC4QADvY

More Links:
Website: https://tow-boot.org/
Git: https://github.com/Tow-Boot/Tow-Boot
Releases: https://github.com/Tow-Boot/Tow-Boot/releases
About Tow-Boot: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wCVcjwpDCYo

Anyone mates with the  mobian webmaster? Debian permits  onion access to their repo https://onion.debian.org      Few easy steps to add onion address for mobian repo https://matt.traudt.xyz/posts/2021-05-03-website-setup/      Please contact mobian webmaster if you can find their contact.

So I recently stumbled upon the CM4 MATX Project to create a Micro ATX motherboard for the RPi Compute Module 4. Does anyone know if this will be compatible with the SOQuartz or if anything similar is planned by Pine64? I've been waiting forever for an affordable, low power desktop ARM board.

Hey I don't think the sign up question for the wiki is that good, A: Some of us don't know what the first community edition of the Pinephone was. I own a bunch of Pine64 products but had no idea. B: The answer isn't that easy to google, I found it but it wasn't "first result of first search". C: It seems to be the same capatcha every time? At least refreshing didn't give me a new capatcha which means that once spammers figure it out once they can make unlimited accounts.

Hi

I don't think it's limited to Mobian or Phosh, but I can't get the F1 to F10 keys to work.

I can use the Fn + number to get the other characters/symbols, although it's a known issue that some of those are incorrect at the moment.  As far as I know, you use the Pine/Super L key as the modifier for the actual functions, but that just outputs the number, as if you hadn't used the Pine key.

The Pine key registers as Super L in xev, so it's doing something at least.

Curious if anyone has or hasn't got these keys to work as expected, and if they have got them working, what was involved in doing that.

Today I received my Pinephone keyboard case and after waiting for it to reach room temperature and then completely charge, I was ready to try it.
The first power up was a nice surprise: it worked perfectly fine with Mobian (on uSD). It also works with PostmarketOS (on eMMC). Great!
But it didn't charge the phone in either OS. Bummer!

To cut a long debugging story short, here's THE PROBLEM:
- the pogo pins on the Pinephone don't all make contact, hence the title.
Quality control on the Pinephone needs to be improved.
The DCIN pin in particular was responsible for not charging the phone.
See attached picture: 01_problem_pinephone_pogo_pins.jpg

THE FIX is to make all the pogo pins make contact.
In my case, just the DCIN pin since the I2C worked fine.
My solution was to use a copper tape which has adhesive (not conducting!) on one side.
However, a piece of aluminum foil/thin copper or other metal will work just as well.

THE EXPLANATION - a picture is worth a thousand words. Here's three more, in order as numbered:
02_explanation.jpg
03_fix_before_application.jpg
04_fix_applied.jpg

And just like that it worked! Charging the phone as intended.

Note #1:
Whatever you use, make sure you:
- fix the metal piece(s) in place firmly with some THIN tape
and
- make absolutely sure you don't short-circuit any pogo pins (with each other)
and
- make sure the fix parts don't touch any metal parts of the phone internals
Just cover any non-contact parts with THIN insulating tape.

Note #2:
An additional explanation for my fix:
The metal is longer in the bent over itself part do reduce the resistance of the metal piece itself.

Note #3:
The proper fix is twofold:
- Pine64 needs to improve the quality control for the Pinephones and make sure all the pogo pins are the same length once assembled
- the keyboard case contacts need to be shallower (less deep) to ensure differences in pogo pins length don't matter as much as now

I hope this helps more than one person with similar problems.

Now, to print some spacers as recommended in another thread and fix the first row of keys...


Updates
-------
In the end I added a plastic shim (0.37mm) under the POGO contact on the lid while still keeping the copper foil patch in place because I was losing keyboard functionality when the processor got hotter.  A slight press on the back of the screen brought it back for a short while (before shimming) and after shimming seemed to work fine w/o any need to do anything.  The shim raised the INT and DCIN pins primarily and all the others by a smaller amount.

It stopped working again once I started pushing the CPU AND at the same time increasing the charging current limit (from the case battery) to 1.5A.
This was done by writing 1500000 to
    /sys/class/power_supply/axp20x-usb/input_current_limit
as pointed out in a number of places, for example in this thread:
    https://forum.pine64.org/showthread.php?...881&page=2

I have a script which does this and it has to be done after the battery starts charging because the OS will reset the limit to 500mA.
- turn on the case battery and wait for charging indicator
- write the desired limit value
- print the actual value to verify it's still correct
Or just leave running the graphical OS utility which displays live charging info.

Continuing, it was the same behavior as before shimming so I supplemented the shim with a second piece of plastic (0.80mm) and this holds for now.  The original copper patch is still on but the POGO pin deformed it as expected so it's less effective.

For POGO pins shimming I just cut two small rectangles of ~1cm x 0.5cm and pushed them about 3mm under the base of the "U" shaped edge which surrounds the POGO pins piece of plastic on the kbd lid.  I inserted first the slim one then the thicker one by barely lifting the kbd plastic with a spudger (also plastic, but sharp).  This tool was inserted less than 1mm under the base of the "U".
See picture 04_fix_applied.jpg for the "U" I mention.

There is nothing special about the shims sizes or the shim pieces.
They're just solid plastic from product clamshells or any other throw-away packaging you might have around the house at any time.  Just insert the slimmest piece first and don't go too deep.
The technique is mentioned in some other thread I can't find now and also in the kbd troubleshooting table on this page:
    https://xnux.eu/pinephone-keyboard/faq.html


Top row shimming - as explained here:  "PinePhone keyboard number key row issue - solution" needs a safe method to pull the keys w/o damaging them or the silicone membrane below.

  I pulled the keys using a DIY ghetto key puller modeled after a full size key puller.  It's made of CAT3(phone) wire stripped of insulation and some heatshrink (optional).  Not the best material but it fits between keys.  Two loops of fishing line/nylon/thread would work just as well.
Hindsight: if you use wire, size it for the keys before twisting the wires together and make both loops the same size.

To use, slide one loop from the left, the other from the right completely under the key and pull straight up.
See picture: 05_key_puller.jpg

The key shims are a mix of 0.20mm and 0.15mm (I made a set of each) depending on how each key feels.

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Curious how viable the PineNote with android is right now, and some other users have reported KOReader is working well for reading. How's the mobile version of Xournal++?