My P64 2G board arrived the other day, today was the first chance I had to try it out. I bought the pledge kit that comes with the playbox and touchscreen. Of course the playbox is delayed, but I can still try everything out. Hooked everything up, wouldn't boot, or rather, touchscreen remained black, not powered up, whatever. Spent a few hours looking on the boards, and came to the conclusion that maybe the supplied android card may not have the right img, so disconnected the touchscreen and used hdmi cable to my 46" tv. Booted right up to android screen, looks like a 46" smart phone, lol. Well that's good, at least I know the board works, LOL

So, I am guessing I need to burn a different android img to use touchscreen?

Is there a way to use touch screen and HDMI simultaneously so I can use this to stream hulu/Netflix?

Can I use a wireless keyboard with a builtin touchpad?

Can I use an external hard drive to store media to watch from?

Thanks in advance for any helpful answers!!

Hi all

Got my pine this week and downloaded the current openhab image today. Copying to SD worked great (dd in Linux) and pine starts up fine. 

Openhab is not started though so i tried to manually start it again. Still nothing. Here is the output from the status command

Several weeks ago, I sent an email to Pine A64 asking for a shipment date. I was told I would receive a reply in 4 days, but have yet to receive a response. I went to Kickstarter's Pine A64 web page, and they think I already received my reward (backer # 3457). I have not received my Pine A64, and have not received any of the accessories I ordered in February. Is there any way to resolve this?

I found this project for Raspberry Pi, a Stratum One NTP server using a GPIO expansion card.
http://www.satsignal.eu/ntp/Raspberry-Pi-NTP.html

The expansion card is available from:
https://store.uputronics.com/index.php?r...duct_id=81

I would like to use my Pine64 instead of the RPi.

Anybody here knows if the GPIO header has the same pinout as the RPi? Ideally, I want to buy this card and plug it into my Pine.

If you just got your board like me, and want to image it, you may be confused or frustrated at the download. I was too, but after a bit of research, I found that you have to use a program like 7zip or winrar to extract the .xz file, and it has the image file in it.

After repeated emails to Pine64, Kickstarter, and Backerkit with no sresponse except bot type emails I am considering legal action.  I pledged to a $89 package.  Received a tracking number that said the package had been delivered over a month ago and the shipping address for the tracking number was not MY address.

I am starting to think the whole thing is a scam.

Totally feed up!


Charles in AZ

   

Good morning from Rochester MN...

... this is my desk at the moment. SoC is a beautiful 40c with a sold 3v2 and fluctuating 4v86.

The 5v supply is a bit of a mystery. W/ usb receiver, fan, and LED lab running 4v86... with the fan and receiver unplugged 4v5-4v72 / short time after plugging the fan and receiver back in then 4v86 !

I'm using an older 2A PSU from my PI, so will report back when the new supply arrives.

marcus

Backer number #245. 7 weeks after the 4/28 CN tracking number was sent. Nothing received. The tracking numbers has show only up to 23rd of April. No response to my mails also.

I am currently investigating how the battery charger in the PMIC (AXP803) is supported by the software. Being a hardware guy I was working my way up from the bottom side of things, starting with the physical connection and the PMIC:

The battery seems to be connected to the PMIC via a load sensing (current sensing) shunt and the PMIC has a switch that connects the battery to the inputs of the voltage
regulators once certain conditions are met. There is also an input on the battery connector to attach a 10k NTC for monitoring the battery temperature. The PMIC contains a battery charger that charges the battery depending on what DC power source is available (USB/DC IN).

From the AXP803 Datasheet:

- Vbat charge target voltage = 4.2V typical
- Charge current can be set between 200 and 2800mA, 1200mA typical
- Trickle charge current is 10% of normal charge current

- There are two safety timers which can be programmed to limit regular/trickle charging after x minutes (480 min / 50min typical)
- Charging stops in CV mode if the normal charge current drops below 10% of the set charge current
- The NTC monitor has different trip points like cold fault, hot fault for operation and charging which can be programmed in the PMIC
- Battery isolation current is 40uA


- Turning on the PMIC happens by either applying USB/DC_IN or pushing the power button
- Turning off the PMIC happens by undervoltage lockout, fault condition, power button or software writes to a register
- The charger starts working once the voltage input from USB/DC_IN is between 4.1V and 7V

- Input to the regulators is automatically selected from Battery, DC_IN or USB
- USB/DC_IN are preferred over Battery
- If USB and DC_IN are not connected together, DC_IN is preferred over USB
- If USB/DC_IN drops below certain thresholds, Battery takes over
- Input can be controlled by registers

- The function of the charge LED can be controlled via registers

- The PMIC is connected to the A64 via a I2C interface

I have looked at the device tree file and it seems to contain some default setting for the PMIC (and the charger):

On receiving my battery today, I decided it was time to put the old cardboard case I made from the shipping box (great for initial testing) and move up to something with more space and stability.  Found my old Clear modem and decided it would work great.  Had to dremmel, sand, eyeball and tape but eventually I ended up with the following:

Due to not being able to find any right angle audio plugs I had to cut a hole for it to extend out of the case and back into where the speaker is housed.  After thinking about it I liked this idea as it allows me to still plug in headphones when I'm on the go.

I salvaged the old Clear antenna and used it instead of the provided one with the wifi/bt hat.  What do you know, I can now receive wifi from down the street.

Here are images of the other sides minus back as it is just a lot of clear info.  Will have to put a nice print out of something back there to finish out the mod.



Biggest problem I ran into is the 30 pin ribbon cable for the display was about an inch too short to have the display exactly centered so it is sitting lower then expected (and the black piece of tape covers the origonal slot the cable used).  After readjusting it several times everything fits and works.  

In the last pic you can see where I cut out part of the grill of what used to be the bottom of the modem so I can get easy access to the SD card for ease of changing.

Hope this gives some people ideas to work with.