Pine64 Playbox case STP conversion
#1
Hi All

Has anyone successfully converted the STP files available for the Playbox case https://www.pine64.com/downloads (top of page) to STL?


I've tried with 3DSMax by removing each item until I'm left with one bit and then exporting that to STL. I have someone over at 3Dhubs.com attempting to print it but he reckons he needs to split the case...? Maybe because the images aren't laid flat?

I'm no expert with 3DMax not with 3D printers, perhaps someone could look at those files and create a working STL set until we receive our paid for cases?

[img]<a href=[/img][Image: Capture_zpsdobrs2lf.jpg]" />
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#2
i did some googling and found this
https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comm..._stp_file/

so i downloaded Autodesk 123D like the one person said
the file opened right up no problem.

i then did like you did and deleted some parts until i was left with each piece (first deleted all but the front, then all but the back, and so forth, starting over each time) and exported them as STL
i was then able to open in Cura (3d printing software) which could then, theoretically, 3d print them. it started slicing them automatically. i guess it's a software feature.
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#3
I finally got the printed off Playbox but something isn't right. No matter which way I have the LCD, both cables won't connect. If the PCB was sideways like the LCD then the cables would connect.

I can get the DS1 cable in one way and the TP cable in the other. I read that the cases are being made and will hopefully be delivered in August, I'll wait till then and hopefully all will fit.

I didn't have fun soldering the reset/power buttons in, two different solder brands didn't help, they were a pain to try and get the solder to stick.

[Image: 20160726_221248_zps6rd26nys.jpg]
[Image: 20160726_221155_zpslghwg6v0.jpg]
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#4
Nicely done. I've connected the LCD a couple of times for SD card tests and I was always concerned about the lack of length to the TP cable. I hope this is addressed when playbox ships in a couple of weeks.

I'm not fond or or experienced with soldering (but give me a MIG welder). Overall, I don't think it was very difficult, but YMMV.

Matt
+1 me if I have helped you in any way. Thank you.
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#5
The problem with soldering the switches in is that the mechanical guide posts are soldered into the ground layer of the board which immediately transports the heat away from the point of contact. You need a powerful soldering station (I use a Weller WS81 for example) and a solder pen that is constructed in a way so that all the heat is actually delivered even with small SMD tips (this is were cheaper soldering solutions usually fail...). Make sure you heat up the area where you want to make the joint before touching it with the tin, but if it takes more than 2-3 seconds then your station and/or pen+tip combination are to weak/wrong. If you do more rework on boards with large ground/supply planes investing in a cheap hotair and preheater station usually does wonders....
Come have a chat in the Pine IRC channel >>
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#6
(07-28-2016, 10:22 AM)xalius Wrote: The problem with soldering the switches in is that the mechanical guide posts are soldered into the ground layer of the board which immediately transports the heat away from the point of contact. You need a powerful soldering station (I use a Weller WS81 for example) and a solder pen that is constructed in a way so that all the heat is actually delivered even with small SMD tips (this is were cheaper soldering solutions usually fail...). Make sure you heat up the area where you want to make the joint before touching it with the tin, but if it takes more than 2-3 seconds then your station and/or pen+tip combination are to weak/wrong. If you do more rework on boards with large ground/supply planes investing in a cheap hotair and preheater station usually does wonders....

Thanks for the info, I will be sure to invest in a nice soldering station soon!
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#7
Here's some .stl files from the latest update from tllim. Everything but the battery part. Don't know if it's different from the one RockE posted?

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7630...Screen.stl
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7630...ackets.stl
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7630...Bottom.stl
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#8
(07-26-2016, 06:54 AM)RockE,  I used Autodesk 123Design to separate the parts and printed them.  I found exactly the same thing, regardless of how you orient the board, you cannot connect both cables. Wrote: I finally got the printed off Playbox but something isn't right. No matter which way I have the LCD, both cables won't connect. If the PCB was sideways like the LCD then the cables would connect.

I can get the DS1 cable in one way and the TP cable in the other. I read that the cases are being made and will hopefully be delivered in August, I'll wait till then and hopefully all will fit.

I didn't have fun soldering the reset/power buttons in, two different solder brands didn't help, they were a pain to try and get the solder to stick.

[Image: 20160726_221248_zps6rd26nys.jpg]
[Image: 20160726_221155_zpslghwg6v0.jpg]
  Reply
#9
you probably would be ok with some ribbon cable extenders. i know it's not ideal, but it would certainly work.
i bought some that give me lots of room. currently posting from my pine64 with screen connected and it is almost 15cm away. lots of slack to fit in any case.
http://forum.pine64.org/showthread.php?tid=1526&page=2
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#10
(07-13-2016, 08:03 PM)jodybrown99 Wrote: Did the same trick you did with Autodesk 123Design and currently printing them with Simply3D.
Thanks for the info on the cable extenders.  May have to order them, but since the enclosures are coming soon and ebay shipping from Hong Kong is several weeks....... I think I'm going to wait on the enclosures arriving.

But -- hey, anybody try to mount the camera yet?  I think the hole in my LCD screen is too small for the camera they sent....

Probably the cable won't extend anyway... Smile
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