Just received my PineTab2 but cannot log on with user=alarm and password=123456 as it says in the docs

The username alarm is the one it wants me to log in to but none of the passwords I've tried have worked

Hi, I've actually pushed quite a few SlateOS fixes and updates to Github:

• Fix for accelerometer.
  
• Fix for overlapping buttons on the watch.
  
• Fix for recurring notification vibrations.
  
• Companion app UI reworked.
  
• Shake-to-wake in addition to raise to wake.
  
• Sensitivity settings for both accel-based wake methods.
  
• Deactivation of face diagnostics.
  
• Notification on the watch.
  
• Watch screen navigation indicators.
  
• Watch face, button and text colours!
  
• Media control sub-app (tested with Spotify).
  
• Weather sub-app with tides (I live near the sea) (uses phone GPS).
  
• Turn-by-turn Navigation sub-app for OsmAnd Free and Pro (no affiliation there!). Start navigation in OsmAnd and open the Vavigtation sub-app on the watch.
  
• RSS news reader sub app (configure via its settings in the companion app sub-app repository).
  
• Companion app sub-app connectors for http, calendar, alarms, HealthConnect, Home Assistant.
  

Hello all

             i'm Mike from Australia and am considering buying a PineTime watch.

      i would prefer to sync/connect it directly to my linux compter. if necessary, through a 
Samsung  s21

        i get the watch in the post. i open the box. i charge it.

      What do i need to do after that ?   Their website is anything but clear.

     Are there any fitness apps that work with PineTime ?

        Does PineTime count calories burned ?

                                                                       Mike

Quote:Hi everyone,

We’ve been working on Linux ARM64 support and it’s now available for beta testing. There are Debian and AppImage packages available. We’d appreciate your help testing it on your favorite ARM processor! Please let us know how it goes and share your feedback here.

Hi everyone!

I humbly present SlateOS, a new open-source firmware for the PineTime, which supports JavaScript sub-apps that can be sideloaded without changing the firmware. Its low-level functions are based on InfiniTime and, in turn, FreeRTOS, so a big thank you to all those involved in these projects!

https://github.com/LeaCreative/SlateOS

I love my PineTime and wanted to be able to easily create apps for it. So I came up with the idea of using the watch as a thin client for my Android phone. In offline mode, the  SlateOS offers watch face, step counter and heart rate sensing.

Connect it to the companion app on your phone and you can open the app launcher, which the app populates. The JS sub-apps, basically packaged JS code, run on your phone in the companion app, which tells the watch what to draw and accepts user input. This enables use of the phone's hardware, such as its GPS receiver.

In the companion app you can select which sub-apps you want listed in SlateOS' launcher. You can write your own JS sub-apps and I can't wait to see what you come up with! Just please read the sub-app rules doc, so that you'll be able to get it right.

I'd love to hear what you think about this!

Cheers,
Daniel

Hi everyone!

I humbly present SlateOS, a new open-source firmware for the PineTime, which supports Javascript sub-apps that can be sideloaded without changing the firmware. 
Its low-level functions are based on InfiniTime and in turn FreeRTOS, so a big thank you to all those involved in these projects!

https://github.com/LeaCreative/SlateOS

I love my PineTime and wanted to be able to easily create apps for it. So I came up with the idea of using the watch as a thin client for my Android phone. In offline mode, the  SlateOS offers watch face, step counter and heart rate sensing. Connect it to the companion app on your phone and you can open the app launcher, which the app populates. The JS sub-apps, basically packaged JS code, run on your phone in the companion app, which tells the watch what to draw and accepts user input. This enables use of the phone's hardware, such as its GPS receiver. In the companion app you can select which sub-apps you want listed in SlateOS' launcher. You can write your own JS sub-apps and I can't wait to see what you come up with! Just please read the sub-app rules doc, so that you'll be able to get it right.

Cheers,
Daniel
 
Pics:

Feel free to DM me. US based. 

PBP is scratched on the bottom but otherwise fine. PineTab-V and PineNote are in flawless condition.

PineBuds Pro: Teardown and Battery Replacement

#repair #battery #electronics #Piner



My PineBuds Pro were new old stock. Never used, just sat in a box. When I finally charged them they ran about an hour at low volume with ANC off, which is well under spec.



These buds are repairable and the cells are cheap. The problem is that there's almost no teardown information for them anywhere online, so I wrote this up.



One thing to know before you start: if the buds are old, the cell inside has probably swollen. Mine had. Better to find that out now than halfway through prying the shell apart.



Disclaimer



This is a record of a repair I did on my own PineBuds Pro. I have an electronics background and years of hands-on soldering experience, and this write-up assumes a similar level of skill. It isn't a beginner guide, and it isn't a recommendation that anyone else attempt it.



Lithium cells can vent, catch fire, or explode if punctured, crushed, shorted, or overheated. Opening the buds is irreversible and voids any warranty.



If you try this, you do so entirely at your own risk. I accept no responsibility for any damage, injury, or loss that results.



⚠️ Lithium cells can catch fire if punctured or shorted. Don't pry near the cell, don't let metal touch both terminals, and stop if it gets hot. At your own risk.



Step 1: Open the earbud





[pic: squeezing the earbud shell]



There are no screws. The shell is held by internal clips with a little adhesive. The way in is to flex it.



The plastic is soft and has some give. Squeezing the shell deforms it just enough to strain the joint from inside, and the clips release and the glue tears before the plastic takes any damage.



Squeeze firmly near the seam and hold. The seam starts to separate, and you may even see the LED indicator through the gap. Keep the pressure on, work a plastic pry tool into the opening, then run it around the edge to release the remaining clips.



Squeeze in short bursts rather than one long press. Repeated flexing works the clips loose bit by bit, and you get much better control than with steady heavy force.



Step 2: A note on debris and tools



You'll see crumbs or dust as the shell opens. That's the old adhesive breaking up, not the plastic cracking. Nothing to worry about.



Use a plastic pry tool or spudger. Never a metal blade or screwdriver. The shell plastic is good quality and flexes well, but it's soft enough that metal will gouge it.



Use a wide tool too, not a pointed one. A narrow tip puts all the force on one spot, which dents the plastic and can crack the clip underneath. A broad edge spreads that force along the seam so the shell flexes as a whole. A guitar pick works well. Avoid anything sharp.



Step 3: Inside the earbud





[pic: shell apart, PCB visible, small black rubber cover loose in the shell]



With the shell apart you can see the PCB. It isn't screwed down. It's held by heat-staked plastic posts, where moulded pins have been pushed through the board and their tips melted flat.



How the touch controls work. The inside of the outer cover is lined with aluminium foil. Once assembled, that foil rests against two pogo pins on the PCB, and those pins run to the capacitive sensing pin on the chip. When you touch the outside of the shell (the side facing away from your ear), the capacitance changes and the chip reads it through those pins. That's the whole touch input path for volume, ANC and everything else.



The other four contacts sit on the opposite face, the side against your ear, next to the speaker. Those are the charging and flashing contacts, covered in Step 4.



Don't lose the mic gasket. There's a small black rubber cover sitting in the shell. It belongs over the microphone on the PCB, it isn't attached to anything, and it falls out very easily. Put it somewhere safe as soon as you see it.



Step 4: Remove the PCB





[pic: PCB removed, showing main chip, battery and wiring]



Cut or shave off the melted heads of the plastic posts, then lift the board out. The battery is underneath, hidden by the PCB.



The main chip is a BES2300 (Bestechnic), running from an external 26.000 MHz crystal. A solid, well-supported part.



Six very fine heat-resistant wires run under the board:

• 2 to the battery, B+ and B−
  
• 4 to the external contact pads: V+ and V− for charging, TX and RX for firmware flashing
  

Title: Where should I post a PineBuds Pro repair and battery replacement guide?

Hi everyone,
I'm new to the forum, and I'd like to thank the Pine64 community for creating such a welcoming place. I've been following Pine64 products for a long time.
There isn't much information about the PineBuds Pro online, so I thought it might be useful to share what I've learned about repairing them, including how to replace the battery.
Could someone point me to the right section to post this in? Thanks in advance, and best wishes to all.

Hi all,

Flashed the latest danctnix yesterday because I kept getting errors when I connected my phone to the USB-port. I need to transfer (really big) files from my Pinetab to my phone, which works without any problems from my desktop computer.
Unfortunately the update did not help; I'm getting the same errors ("an unknown error occured"/"KIO Client stopped working"). After plugging in the cable I sometimes get the option to open the device with the filemanager. If I do, I get incomplete directory listings, or errors as I try to descend into a directory. During the procedure sometimes the connection is lost and I get a new popup in my screen if I want to open the device with the filemanager.

The kde-cli-tools are at the latest version and I already replaced the USB-C cable a few times to no avail.

Has anybody noticed the same behaviour, or am I missing something here?

Any suggestions more than welcome!