battery power in android

[UnixOutlaw]

OK - so I booted up one of my Pine64+ 2GB boards into Android Lollipop 5.1.1 for LCD touchpanel...

Wifi works - tick
Bluetooth starts - tick
Ethernet works - tick
LCD Panel+touch works - tick
Battery charges - tick
Battery powers pine - UNTICK!

What gives?

I watched its progress charging up an 8000 mAh battery - once charged I pulled the DC in out and it shut off!

Battery definitely connected to the 3 pin PH connector.  Obviously gets a charge through to the battery - why can't I power my pine with the battery?  What's the point in charging it if it won't power the board?  What am I doing wrong?

[xalius]

That does not sound right, the only thing that should potentially shut off if you switch to battery is the 5V for USB if the jumper is in the wrong position... does it boot on battery?

[UnixOutlaw]

That does not sound right, the only thing that should potentially shut off if you switch to battery is the 5V for USB if the jumper is in the wrong position... does it boot on battery?

I can't test if it runs on battery, because there's no power switch (I got two Pine64+ 2GB boards - but only one loose switch - and I'm not prepared to do board soldering because I'll probably mess it up).

Oh - I'll check what jumpers are on on the board...

Android is only a "test" - when the Linux image for LCD becomes available - I'll be using that...

Thanks...

[xalius]

You will need the power switch once you operate mobile from a battery. If you dont want to solder the switch to the board, the switch pins are also on the small EXP header where you can for example just attach:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ATX-PC-Computer-...SwEjFXcQaS

The button connects to GND so you can just plug that in between Pin 5 (Pwr/Stb) and Pin 6 (GND) on the EXP header (page 3):

http://files.pine64.org/doc/Pine%20A64%2...160119.pdf

[UnixOutlaw]

Okay - so I flipped over the jumper - to the other poles - and still no go...

Powers up on USB DC in - battery shows connected and charged - pull USB power out and the thing goes black!

Is this a software thing?  What gives?  What's the point of charging a battery if you can't run on it?

I'm yet to test in Linux - but I will be mighty annoyed if I can't run either of my Pines on battery!

Also - are there any AXP (I think I read somewhere about Pine using AXP209) scripts to monitor battery from Linux?

[pfeerick]

Okay - so I flipped over the jumper - to the other poles - and still no go...

Powers up on USB DC in - battery shows connected and charged - pull USB power out and the thing goes black!

Is this a software thing?  What gives?  What's the point of charging a battery if you can't run on it?

I'm yet to test in Linux - but I will be mighty annoyed if I can't run either of my Pines on battery!

Also - are there any AXP (I think I read somewhere about Pine using AXP209) scripts to monitor battery from Linux?

I can't comment as to whether the pine64 will run if booted with DC connected, and then is yanked, but I can say that I was able to power the pine64 from the battery without any drama... oh, wait... does your battery have a three pin connector? If not, you need to connect the middle pin to ground via a 10k resistor (there is an obscure reference to this on p6 of the datasheet, plus tllim stated that here. 

If you have a two wire battery, and the middle pin is not connected to GND via the resistor, the AXP803 will think there is something wrong with the battery and refuse to use it (or even charge it IIRC). 

There is one or two battery monitor scripts knocking around... I made this one colourful one based off of one of the ones knocking around on the forum somewhere.

[MarkHaysHarris777]

UnixOutlaw, please, settle down;

... the battery is powering ALL THREE of my PineA64 boards, no issues. I will tell you that you must have the power switch and the reset switch soldered on to the board, or, as Xalius has told you, you can also use the EXP header to connect the switches to the board via jumpers (but the point is that the switches must be solid, and they must be there!)

The battery takes 15 hours to fully change the first time... also, don't yank the power cord ! Get your switches in place, and then power on the unit with the battery connected. The power switch will not work to power on unless the battery IS connected.

Also, to power on you DONT click the power switch... that puts it to sleep. To power on you HOLD the power button for two seconds until the red light comes on and then about 1/2 second after that.

Visit us on chat for live help... we are here to assist you any way we can...

[UnixOutlaw]

UnixOutlaw,  please, settle down;  

... the battery is powering ALL THREE of my PineA64 boards, no issues.  I will tell you that you must have the power switch and the reset switch soldered on to the board, or, as Xalius has told you, you can also use the EXP header to connect the switches to the board via jumpers (but the point is that the switches must be solid, and they must be there!)

The battery takes 15 hours to fully change the first time...  also, don't yank the power cord !   Get your switches in place, and then power on the unit with the battery connected.  The power switch will not work to power on unless the battery IS connected.

Also, to power on you DONT click the power switch... that puts it to sleep.  To power on you HOLD the power button for two seconds until the red light comes on and then about 1/2 second after that.  

Visit us on chat for live help... we are here to assist you any way we can...

This really is a joke!  Surely you jest sir?

Do you mean my board is only partially assembled?

I got 2 x 2 GB boards - and ONLY ONE switch in the package and it was loose floating around in the packaging.

Seriously - if this was mentioned when I pledged to the kickstarter (you will have to partially assemble the board yourself with a soldering iron - NOTE - competence with board level soldering skills required to utilise this product) - I never would have backed it!  If I try to solder tiny little components - I can almost guarantee you that I will do more harm than good!

So you're telling me I need 4 x switches (only 1 supplied for 2 products in packaging) and that I need to locate a local "system board competent" solderer - just so I can use batteries?

Forget about it buddy!  Will use the batteries on CHIP instead.

Can someone suggest a reputable online retailer of suitable switches?  I might buy some anyway, perhaps solder jumpers onto the switches -and connect them via "EXA" headers...  Because there's NO WAY I am going to try and use a soldering iron near a system board!

[Boring]

It is stretch goal #1 on kickstarter. You do not need to solder if you use the exp headers.

Have fun

[MarkHaysHarris777]

This really is a joke!  Surely you jest sir?

Do you mean my board is only partially assembled?

Your board is fully assembled and is potentially capable of 'being' what you want it to be.  Some people do not need the switches,  some people prefer to have the board in an enclosure and then run wires to switches on a front panel.  The board you received is flexible and cost effective. Adding switches to every board manufactured adds to the cost of the board and the manufacturing process;  as is, the board is distributed at a very reasonable cost and may be altered for various purposes without much fuss...

... the PineA64 is a serious computing platform (super computer on an index card) capable of running multiple OS images for any number of purposes. No one promises (with an enterprise like PineA64) that the board is suitable for your particular purpose, nor that it will satisfy your every whim... it does promise technical specifications (hardware) and potential applications (software) that may be explored. I have three of these boards, and I am applying them with ease, and I am very happy with their performance and functional specification.  I love them, actually.

As far as soldering near a system board:  there is no problem soldering near this system board... the switches are on the end of the board.  I soldered three sets of switches (both) on three boards without the slightest difficulty.  I used a very hot iron (40 watt simple iron) and not a glitch. On the other hand, mounting the switches on this board does not require any soldering what-so-ever... just use the EXP header and run jumper wires to your switches. 

If you're not happy with the board, send it to me.  If it arrives in good condition, I will pay you for it promptly. If you want help getting things going, visit us on-line in the chat room irc, we'll be glad to help you!  

Attitude is everything !