To clarify (if clarification were needed), you can use the 10-pin EXT header to perform the same functions as the power and reset solder points, without the need to solder.
If you were instead to use the power and reset connection(s) available on the edge of the board, it would ideally need to be soldered - then it wouldn't appear loose. You would solder to the outer two holes on that right hand edge of the board, (where it says 'power' and 'reset').
See this diagram for more details:
http://wiki.pine64.org/images/7/7d/Pine6...nector.png
(As noted, you solder to the outer two holes; as DonFL has mentioned, the inner two are for the stability of the switch)
Whether you solder or utilise the 10-pin header, you can use pretty much any momentary push switch that you like. I have used an old arcade machine button I had lying around.
If you were instead to use the power and reset connection(s) available on the edge of the board, it would ideally need to be soldered - then it wouldn't appear loose. You would solder to the outer two holes on that right hand edge of the board, (where it says 'power' and 'reset').
See this diagram for more details:
http://wiki.pine64.org/images/7/7d/Pine6...nector.png
(As noted, you solder to the outer two holes; as DonFL has mentioned, the inner two are for the stability of the switch)
Whether you solder or utilise the 10-pin header, you can use pretty much any momentary push switch that you like. I have used an old arcade machine button I had lying around.
