[quote pid='10070' dateline='1463979330']
Thats a nicely done mod.
Got to say I really want those tubes you are using to cover up the cables. The result is perfect
Great job
[/quote]
Thanks, I had been trying to come up with a way to do this for a while, and I decided I wanted the memory chips to have some clearance for cooling. I still have not seen them... felt them... get hot but I do want to be able to sink the heat if it becomes too much. I have some really tiny sinks but I am trying to wait for the official ones to drop. Getting the cables through he tube wasn't too hard, I had to remove the connector housing and feed them through, but if you make the cables from scratch it should be a breeze. I toyed with getting a housing setup for my USB hub but it is just not really built in a way that is conducive to a good Lego housing. But the upshot is that I can use the 5v 4a or 5v 5a supplies to run power to the hub then to the Pine, or vise versa, whichever seems more prudent. Since the Pi header has 5v available and it is accessible from the outside it may be how I power it in the short run, of course I could power the hub separately too with something smaller. I really don't know for sure. I have been using this board to try out the many roles I plan for it and thus have been doing different things and imagining different setups for it. I also fully trust the amp ratings on power supplies that I get, so I will load test them and see what they are truly capable of safely before loading them to any where near there full advertised loads. I figure by getting something twice what the Pine can use will give me a good chance of actually getting what the Pine needs.
You really should check what brick link has available in your local area or from somewhere your country may have any free trade treaties with... I think there a dumb idea... but that's politics and I try to avoid that, but I know that in Europe import and export taxes can be brutal! I am still not sure how this will look in the end. I think that the power port will be covered soon though once I have received and tested the new power supplies. I had read somewhere on the forum that the USB port is not truly rated for 2.5a according to the wiki that may be true, I know they can but with my luck with these styles of cables I would be the one that had one short out and fry the board and legos and burn the rest of the house down, so I will feel much safer with connectors and cables rated to 3-4a TBH I would have liked a JST-XH connector for power personally but thats just because I have a lot of them and am used to them. I have several connectors I use regularly but I use the JST-XH for lipo batteries balancing ports and for most of my potentiometer connections and use Molex KK connectors for connections to components off board like bridge rectifiers or capacitors and also the larger ones for mains voltage in and stuff like that. I supposed that since this is technically open source I could re-arrange the board a little to my liking... but that would be terribly more expensive than just buying one from them directly and who knows maybe someone will read this and implement some of the ideas for the REV 2 of the board. Heck i I would be happy with a board that just has a port unpopulated that way I could put whatever connector i wanted on it... Thinking about it a board that was not populated with any connectors could be a good idea for people who like to standardize there plugs like me.... anyways I think I am firmly on a tangent. This Forum software lags when I get long winded anyways.
Thats a nicely done mod.
Got to say I really want those tubes you are using to cover up the cables. The result is perfect
Great job
[/quote]
Thanks, I had been trying to come up with a way to do this for a while, and I decided I wanted the memory chips to have some clearance for cooling. I still have not seen them... felt them... get hot but I do want to be able to sink the heat if it becomes too much. I have some really tiny sinks but I am trying to wait for the official ones to drop. Getting the cables through he tube wasn't too hard, I had to remove the connector housing and feed them through, but if you make the cables from scratch it should be a breeze. I toyed with getting a housing setup for my USB hub but it is just not really built in a way that is conducive to a good Lego housing. But the upshot is that I can use the 5v 4a or 5v 5a supplies to run power to the hub then to the Pine, or vise versa, whichever seems more prudent. Since the Pi header has 5v available and it is accessible from the outside it may be how I power it in the short run, of course I could power the hub separately too with something smaller. I really don't know for sure. I have been using this board to try out the many roles I plan for it and thus have been doing different things and imagining different setups for it. I also fully trust the amp ratings on power supplies that I get, so I will load test them and see what they are truly capable of safely before loading them to any where near there full advertised loads. I figure by getting something twice what the Pine can use will give me a good chance of actually getting what the Pine needs.
You really should check what brick link has available in your local area or from somewhere your country may have any free trade treaties with... I think there a dumb idea... but that's politics and I try to avoid that, but I know that in Europe import and export taxes can be brutal! I am still not sure how this will look in the end. I think that the power port will be covered soon though once I have received and tested the new power supplies. I had read somewhere on the forum that the USB port is not truly rated for 2.5a according to the wiki that may be true, I know they can but with my luck with these styles of cables I would be the one that had one short out and fry the board and legos and burn the rest of the house down, so I will feel much safer with connectors and cables rated to 3-4a TBH I would have liked a JST-XH connector for power personally but thats just because I have a lot of them and am used to them. I have several connectors I use regularly but I use the JST-XH for lipo batteries balancing ports and for most of my potentiometer connections and use Molex KK connectors for connections to components off board like bridge rectifiers or capacitors and also the larger ones for mains voltage in and stuff like that. I supposed that since this is technically open source I could re-arrange the board a little to my liking... but that would be terribly more expensive than just buying one from them directly and who knows maybe someone will read this and implement some of the ideas for the REV 2 of the board. Heck i I would be happy with a board that just has a port unpopulated that way I could put whatever connector i wanted on it... Thinking about it a board that was not populated with any connectors could be a good idea for people who like to standardize there plugs like me.... anyways I think I am firmly on a tangent. This Forum software lags when I get long winded anyways.
Little beats big when little is smart. First with the head, then with the heart. P.K. ~Power of One~
