06-24-2016, 02:11 PM
(This post was last modified: 06-24-2016, 02:13 PM by MarkHaysHarris777.)
I have a couple of tips regarding the DC IN Power-ON & Reset switches. First off, they are right-angle switches which have a beefy frame (say heatsink) and therefore require a 40 watt iron to solder in (your little 15 or 25 watt iron isn't going to cut it).
Secondly, and maybe most importantly, the power-on switch is not going to work without the DC batt plugged in and fully charged. The PMIC detects that the batt isn't there and immediately shuts down the system; this is why several of you are reporting that your switch isn't working. The reset does just that (a reset) not a good thing to do without a clean shutdown first. Holding the power-on button for a while will do a hard power-off if that were required (like any notebook computer, &c). Otherwise, the power-on button sends a keycode to the kernel (I have not been able to verify but I think its 116; let you know). This could be trapped to signal a clean poweroff. With a fully charged batt plugged in the power-on button will power-up the device without removing the main power plug. Not sure if a small backup battery would be enough; will have to test.
marcus
PS ... click the thumbnail above to get a larger view/
